The sense of wonder at the history of the city; the scents of cigarette smoke, rotting rubbish and day-old urine left by drunks.
She is still stunning however.
Ireland, as a whole, is a country who's had her fair share of abuse through the centuries and her people have not gone down without a fight. Many a story is told on tour (and in bars) of rebellions and uprisings and battles fought and mostly lost. Their warriors are legends though, held aloft with reverence even in the face of what some might term their hard-headed foolishness.
This is a nation with a record for being beaten down but rising again. And again. And again.
As Jonathan Swift, one of Ireland's best authors said, "A man should never be ashamed to own that he has been in the wrong, which is but saying that he is wiser today than yesterday."